
Why Vietnam sparkles
Have you ever had the urge to hug an entire country? Some countries won’t let you get close to them, but this should be easy in Vietnam.
Would delicious draught beer on tap for around 50 cents a mug, tempt you to find out that this is a very special destination?
Vietnam probably has the most friendly and polite people on earth and as a bonus, they make the most delicious street food for less than $1.50 a bowl.
Could that tempt us away from more unfriendly Westernised destinations that won’t talk to you?
When I arrived for a 20 day vacation, I was apprehensive about the food and traffic but then something occurred that melted my heart.
Walking around the streets of Ho Chi Minh city on a steamy pre-monsoonal night, we crossed a busy street near the Korean embassy when suddenly several women on scooters were tempted at the same time to jump the red light and drive over my foot. Like a traffic cop, I held up my hand and yelled, “no wait…….”and was met with as very loud “shorry” from one of the riders. You don’t hear “shorry” in westernised traffic.
We noticed a national politeness ran through this picturesque and charming country. I couldn’t wait to get back to OZ and quiz my local Vietnamese doctor, “hey Vu, you won’t believe what happens in Vietnam. People apologise when they don’t have to, which means there might be a national politeness policy?”
“There sure is John, you’ve hit the nail on the head,” he said.

Intrigued and charmed by the traffic in Ho Chi Minh City.

From that night onward, in Ho Chi Minh City, my wife and I fell in love with the other thing we’d been nervous of, the traffic. We sat and got mesmerised by the thousands of happy motor scooter riders for ages. While eating and drinking coffee we watched it. As a break from the scenery we enjoyed the traffic. Most Vietnamese are born, raised, romanced, married, earn a living and expire, in close association with motor scooters. Import duty on cars is about 100% and their purchase and reduces traffic congestion. Some were seen to have their daily siesta on a parked motorbike.
The blushing bride makes her way to the ceremony, accompanied by the wedding party.
And here is the leap of faith for a tourist: You walk right out into the traffic with your eyes shut, and the hundreds of scooters politely drive around you.
No one swears or gets enraged in western style. For tourists accustomed to road rage, this traffic is like poetry.
I experimented by walking into a pulsing mass of about a hundred scooters, while operating a video camera and simultaneously speaking a commentary.
However I did not fear because the national politeness thing meant they make allowances for silly tourists.
Vietnam News reports that around 30 motorcyclists are killed in road accidents each week. My wife and I hired a scooter four times and only once saw a bicycle accident where some fruit got damaged.
It is quite safe to hire a scooter and get your adrenalin in the traffic or on the steep mountains for $5 a day.
A girl can get no bigger buzz than flying through the mountains of northern Sapa, sharing the road with cycles and construction vehicles, amid the low hanging clouds.
Young men and women were whizzing around those mountain roads while clutching a map, and no one looked in endangered.

The ideal way to forget you are aged in your 50′s is to zip around
the glorious mountain roads north west of Sapa,
10,000 feet above sea level, as if you are still a teenager.
The Viet road toll has seen a significant reduction and is probably reasonable considering the more than 50 million scooters on the road each week. However national politeness doesn’t extend to the police that often pull up a cyclist and elicit a bribe for some minor infraction. Viet Nam News says that the police have dressed like farmers to trap an unsuspecting motorcyclist. The dirt poor drivers have also been known to run over these camouflaged police, with some being injured and bleeding to death.
The green oranges are delicious and the bananas are not picture perfect but equally yummy.
Healthy quality food
At the Than binh restaurant , number 3 district at Ho Chi Minh, we sat and ate 30,000 dong worth of prawn rolls in rice paper, with three dips, worth around $1.50 Au.
The surprises continued with 60 cents for a small bottle of water and $1 for a large 1.5 litre bottle. They can still make a tidy profit after importing it from USA.
While we chomped on super healthy spring rolls, the locals were happy to talk to us, answering our nosey questions. Most wealthy countries have a majority that will tell you to rack off, mind your business or just ignore you, but Viets will answer prying but sincere question. Education has been highly promoted by the Communist government and it has changed many lives.
My taxi driver’s sister was a teacher but his mother is a more lowly paid cook and his father, a farmer.
Thanh was a 22 year old tour guide in HCM city, getting paid 3 million dong per month while her mother, a day’s bus ride away in Tuy Hoa province, cooks for 200,000 dong per month.
My mad friend from Sydney spent three months learning Vietnamese by talking to people at random. Quite a few would then sit him down and spend five minutes correcting his pronunciation. Tell me where you find people like that.
Getting to know the mighty Mekong River, below Ho Chi Minh City.
Most tourists try to get down to the Mekong Delta where you can see villages that make confectionary from coconuts, produce exquisite embroidery and offer delicious fruits. If that culture isn’t enough for you, there are very wrinkly Mekong musicians that play beautiful music on ancient instruments while beautiful girls in traditional dresses will sing and dance their way into your heart.
It takes a couple of hours to travel there by bus but when you can look out the window and see two guys on a scooter balancing a double bed, you know it’s a special place. The mighty Mekong was massive, fast- flowing and wide. We negotiated this rapid river in a tired junk that had a length of fishing line for a throttle cable. The boat’s accelerator pedal was a piece of pine with a primitive rusting hinge. Everything worked and they took such good care of us. Then an 84 year old lady paddled us up a tributary to further cultural experiences in one of the villages. We all took her picture, she smiled through missing teeth but you couldn’t have paid her to be a stay-at-home gran.

It is not unusual to see three children and one parent, scooting to their destination at the same time.
Set up for conversation
Another notable thing is that Vietnamese in the city and villages, have small plastic tables and chairs so they can spend many hours each day, sitting, eating and talking. I only saw wealthy boring people watching television on a hot steamy evening. The same togetherness thing is replicated by Viets that have settled in Australia. I did a survey at my local Sunday fruit and vegetable market at Logan City, Brisbane and discovered that refugees that came to Australia in boats, back in the 70’s and 80’s, continue to have regular reunions with their relatives. They sit on plastic furniture at the markets and sell their produce with the aid of children that are now dentists, accountants and pharmacists. Notably they are repulsed when I asked if they would consider putting their old people in an aged care facility. As a proper journalist and nosey pest, I asked why they all get up at 2a.m. and pack the van and come to the Logan markets so insomniac Aussies can buy produce at 5a.m. “It’s a family thing we did in Vietnam so we do it in Australia”, they said. Contrast this some Aussie vendors that assured me they could never pay their children enough to work at their Sunday fruit and vegetable stall. Therefore they employed non-relatives.
But all across lovable Vietnam, Wi Fi is available everywhere and the internet is free. A tourist laps it up and feels totally spoiled.
Delicious chicken noodle soup is a breakfast favorite.
My most memorable venue for eating was on the beach at Hoi An. Saturday night was when all the trolley, bicycle and scooter propelled cooks lay out their cane mats from the foreshore to the waters edge. As the sun sets, each mat has an oil burning lamp to create atmosphere and each row of mats has a superb dedicated Vietnamese cook. They get your order and bring your food and drink so you can watch the stars, hear the surf and have the most romantic candle lit meal, surrounded by hundreds of people talking, candleing and canoodling. And in the beachside darkness, no one ever gets your order wrong. How did they cook our delicious potato chips on the back of a bicycle kitchen?
In district 3 of Ho chi Minh city, I found a mad Mexican named Moises who translated for me while I got to know a family that sold delicious food and drinks till late into the night. Fifteen year old Lee willingly told me that seven other family members slept in the one room above the shop. Lee and her siblings went to bed around 11p.m. but the parents and elderly trundled in and began snoring around 1a.m. This was after many delirious hours of chatter, while seated on the plastic furniture on their footpath while they watched their own traffic. Lee also said it was the sincere desire of millions of country Vietnamese to escape their low paid and much slower lifestyles and attain to more frenetic and highly paid city lives.
There are around 70 million Buddhist shrines in Vietnamese shops and households.
Buddah is at the top, the god of money is on the left and on the right is the god of good luck.
The people are always optimistic that things will get better.
Often the Communist flag can be seen on a shop front.
Money doesn’t bring more happiness
We noticed that Hanoi seems to have a higher standard of living and more shiny motorcycles than Ho Chi Min, but the award for happiness goes to the less developed areas, and to the crazy black Hmongs of Sapa.
On the windy mountainous drive up to picturesque Sapa in the north of the country, we noticed our local van driver was a fan of “Need for Speed” movies, 1, 2 and 3. We caught blurred glimpses of terraced rice, all with built-in irrigation on slopes steeper than 45 degrees. On the 70 degrees slopes, between the rice, the Hmongs grew entire mountainsides of corn. It was so steep that a farmer had to pack his lunch and toilet paper before starting his daily climb. You can see why my Hmong friends at Logan markets think that any Aussie backyard measuring a quarter of an acre, is a massive economic opportunity. Speaking of sustainable farming, it appears that Viets love to pee on their fruit trees. In 20 days we saw four men relieving themselves on their backyard fruit trees. We weren’t specifically looking for it but it added to the charm and reminded you of things you can’t see in Australia, the UK or the USA, because people are so busy with protocol.
Acres of corn grow on the sides of mountains and hills where it is not suitable for rice.
Once you embrace the Hmong’s zest for farming and selling things to the tourists, you can start to absorb their culture. Some tourists were repulsed by the Hmong’s eagerness to sell their hats, bags and shawls. They were multi-talented at needlework and probably had the best language skills of any group we met. It didn’t take long before you wanted to hug them.
If you could write 2,000 words about the charm and politeness of Americans, Australians or the British, you might get people to flock to their travel agents. With a westernised story, you’d have to struggle but with Vietnam, it comes easy.
Or maybe you could just say that four people can eat out on delicious street food for less than $15 and wash it down with 50 cent mugs of draft Da Nang beer, and the people actually want to talk to you.
One tourist, Laura from san Francisco, summed it up: “they’re the nicest people I have met, and they are so forgiving.”4
It was Saturday on the beach at Hoi An. In several hours it would become
a sea of lamps where conversation,delicious food and romance
would take centre stage for one of the most charming countries on earth.